My shed foundation consisted of 9 concrete filled post holes, with a 200 mm post bracket embedded in each. I worked on the corners first, and placed the portholes and brackets at 2800 centers. This provided a 100 mm overhang on each end. The intermediate posts we place between the centre of the 2800 spaced posts, or at 1400 mm apart. I then placed 3 - 100 x 100 posts horizontally to act as the beams, and then place 150 x 45 joints perpendicular to the beams. All joints tied in with coach screws. Between each joist, l placed spacers for stability staged at approximately 600 centers.
or core a hole to the recommended diameter and depth using the fixture as a template. Clean the hole thoroughly with a hole cleaning brush. Remove the debris with a hand pump, compressed air, or vacuum.
the AnkaScrew™ through the fixture and screw it into the hole with either a socket wrench or an impact wrench using slight pressure until the self-tapping action begins.
the AnkaScrew™ until the fixture is held firm. If resistance is experienced when tightening, unscrew the anchor one turn and re-tighten. Ensure that you do not over tighten.
The project panels can be cut and machined in other ways using standard woodworking techniques and tools. The board is denser and harder than MDF and finer than chipboard, but will cut similarly. To cut a straight edge with a circular saw or jigsaw, mark and clamp a piece of straight timber along the line (allowing for inset distance of the blade to the guard plate) then push the saw along the timber edge using it as a fence. Consider where the line cuts through the pattern and where this cut is on your overall structure. If a structural member is behind the cut line, you can fix the varying open elements that have been cut back to the structure to maintain its strength, and if necessary you could finish this edge with a capping piece of decking timber or similar.